Monday, June 5, 2017

Weekday Wonderings: Reading the INCI names of surfactants?

In this post, Surfactants: A short guide to lathery, foamy, bubbly things, Renie asks: When I look up "BSB" and find this written on your blog "BSB (PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, PEG-150 Distearate, Sodium Laureth-13 Carboxylate, Quaternium-15, found at Voyageur)".....I take it to mean that all of the names following "BSB" are all just different names for the same thing. Is that not right? Because then I looked at one of your recipes, and it called for 10% Cocamidopropyl Betaine and 20% BSB. ?? Are they not the same thing?

If you look at the INCI name for the product Voyageur Soap & Candle carries called BSB, it is: INCI: PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, PEG-150 Distearate, Sodium Laureth-13 Carboxylate, Quaternium-15

Each of these are ingredients that come together to create an ingredient we call BSB (baby safe blend, by Stepan), which is a blend of different ingredients we use in our products. There are some surfactants, like cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium trideceth sulfate, a thickener, an emulsifier, and a preservative in it.

When we get something like cocamidopropyl betaine or sodium laureth sulfate, it's generally that ingredient, some water, maybe a preservative. When we get a blend, it contains quite a few things that will help us when we make a surfactant blend.

This contains some cocamidopropyl betaine, but I like to use a little more to increase my viscosity, increase mildness, stabilize my foam, and increase moisturization.

So the short answer is that they aren't the same thing. BSB contains some cocamidopropyl betaine, but it's a blend of other ingredients that could be used as one single surfactant in a product.

Related posts:
What's an INCI name?
How to read an INCI name (part one)
How to read an INCI name (part two)
Surfactants section of the blog

In the same post, Crystal asked: I am trying to streamline the amount of products I have in my workshop, at the same time as adding a few new ones. You have such a large list of surfactants and I do have a few, but I was wondering...It seems like in several recipes you have SMC and SMO taurate as interchangeable, and then BSB and LSB as interchangeable. If you could only pick one out of each grouping, which would it be for someone with dry skin and hair (I live in Calgary. lol)

Hi Crystal! Did I meet you in Calgary? If so, hello!

Don't make me choose! I'm in love with all the surfactants, although I understand why you might not feel the compulsion to own every single one of them.

If you were to choose a few for dry skin and hair, I'd go with ...

Cocamidopropyl betaine: I choose this for every skin and hair type as it increases mildness, increases viscosity, and makes things foamier and bubblier!

Sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI): If you want to make shampoo bars, definitely get some of this. It has a skin feel that's described as "elegant" and feels moisturized. You can't really make liquid shampoo from it as it doesn't melt well in water, but you can make lovely cream type products. (You'll see one here shortly...and I do have a few cream facial cleansers that might work for your hair,  like this one with BSB, SCI, and cocamidopropyl betaine. (Feel free to leave out the honeyquat or use polyquaternium 7 instead if you can't stand the smell!)

BSB: I love this blend for dry skin and hair as it offers cleansing with mildness. (As you're in Canada, this is the easiest to get at Voyageur Soap & Candle).

Foaming proteins: I have a small addiction to these, too. I've been using different versions, and you can use any of them to make a very light foaming cleanser for your dry skin. I'm afraid I don't know where to get these in Canada, but I get mine from Lotioncrafter or Formulator Sample Shop in the States.

Related posts:
Foaming rice protein foaming cleanser
Foaming oat
Foaming silk

As well, don't forget to use humectants like glycerin, sodium lactate, panthenol, and more when you're in a drier climate like Calgary!

Let me know what you get!

1 comment:

Crystal H said...

Thank you so much Susan, I really appreciate it. I actually have all 3 of those now...(yay) and I'm pretty excited to get using them...I even ordered SMC Taurate from the US and just have to pick it up at some point.

Just wanted to thank you again for all of the information you share with everyone. Its pretty incredible. And yes, we did meet while you were in Calgary. I took your Hair Care Class with my sis in law and I was sooooo happy that I did...just wished I had taken your lotions class as well...hopefully you will be back again.